Tailgater signal amplifier?

[rvuse]

I have the Tailgater and it works fine with 50ft of cable. My camp needs about 100ft which does not work (tested at home without moving Tailgater and 50 works, 100 does not). Is there a signal amplifier that would solve this problem?

 

[Claude Greiner]

Should work at 150 or 200 feet without an issue.

Check your cable connections or consider using rg11 cable

 

[navychop]

Claude is right. Many have done this. Is there some RF interference around? Running parallel to 120v line?

 

[rvuse]

Ok, let me go further into depth on what I did. I had the tailgater in clear sky, I ran 50ft of RG9 cable from the external camper connector to the Tailgater (I have been using this setup/camper with Directv for years - without the tailgater of course). I did a check dish and it went through the 3 steps, obtained the signal, guide and everything was great. Then all I did was unhook the connection at the camper and inserted the 100ft cable therefore now it's 150ft. The signal remained and the tv was fine. However, to ensure that the 150 ft of cable would work for initial setup, I did not touch anything (again it was working) and I did a check dish (4 times). Every time it failed on step 2. Then, I took out the 100ft and reattached the end of the original 50 ft, did a check dish and everything worked again. Then I completely removed the 50 ft of cable, installed 100 ft (camper to tailgater) and the signal remained and the picture was ok. Then, as if initial start up for a new camping trip, I did not touch anything and did a check dish. Step 2 failed, I tried 4 times. So the signal is good enough to travel the distance but for some reason with the longer cable(s), check dish will not complete and obtain signal on the 3 satellites. Thanks for the help.

 

[JSheridan]

Or maybe the 100ft cable is not so good?

 

[Slartibartfarst]

I ran 50ft of RG9 cable

If you mean RG59, that is part of the problem. Try using a good quality RG6 that is Sweep Tested to 3Ghz.

 

[rvuse]

My mistake, the cable new RG6.

 

[harshness]

Ok, let me go further into depth on what I did. I had the tailgater in clear sky, I ran 50ft of RG9 cable from the external camper connector to the Tailgater (I have been using this setup/camper with Directv for years - without the tailgater of course). I did a check dish and it went through the 3 steps, obtained the signal, guide and everything was great. Then all I did was unhook the connection at the camper and inserted the 100ft cable therefore now it's 150ft. The signal remained and the tv was fine.

There's your sign.

The problem is not signal but voltage as Claude noted. If you can add and delete cable without the picture breaking up, signal is absolutely not the problem.

The tailgater probably requires more power than your dish of yore with its ability to self-aim and serve multiple tuners.

 

[rvuse]

I paid good money for the tailgater, my personal camp requires 100ft+/- of cable, I am using 211z receiver as required, besides using rg11 (which I can try but should I need it) any other ideas? Appreciate the help. This is much more frustrating then it's supposed to be.

 

[Symbol]

Rvuse keep in mind that the tailgater uses no electricity. Power and signal travel through that cable in order for it to work. The longer the cable, the harder it is for it to receive both. Try with new high quality cable as others suggested.


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[boba]

Try 100ft. of solid copper center conducter RG-6 cable, you probably have copper coated steel.

 

[rvuse]

Try 100ft. of solid copper center conducter RG-6 cable, you probably have copper coated steel.

Should I get that or RG-11 as Claude suggested?

 

[navychop]

Claude's suggestion is the safer, but more expensive, bet. Mind you, RG-11 fittings are a bit harder.

 

[nelson61]

Copper clad is all you need. Almost all the current is carried on the surface (skin) of the cable. This is why you will see hollow tube high voltage lines and multiple cables bundled together in on big cable to increase load (it increases the surface area).

So that thin copper cladding carries almost all of your signal.

I'd go with the rg11 for simplicity.

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[harshness]

Copper clad is all you need.

I bet you're wrong.

Skin effect only applies to AC (the higher the frequency, the thinner the skin) and since the operating power to the Tailgater is DC, arguing skin effect is a red herring.

Solid copper has a lower voltage drop than CCS for the same gauge of wire because the majority of the CCS cable is steel with a conductivity considerably less than that of copper.

Since we know that the Tailgater sends the signal fine over the cable used, it must come down to the Tailgater not being able to go through its aiming process due to lack of sufficient power.

The possibility that I didn't investigate is that the coupler used to join the two cables may not be up to the current required.

 

[ardeel]

ive used a tailgater at 400+ ft no problems. make a single run of rg6. do not use thread on style ends, compression only unless its gonna get wet. then only if you understand the concept of crimp-on fittings and have the right tools, keep in mind, no one has the right tools for crimp on fittings available for retail. they have an o-ring and di-lectric grease to keep water out of ur tailgater. if you have to use a barrel or "coupler" get the higher freq, blue end type. the culprit most likely is the weather plate that the cable attaches on the exterior of the rv, it was low quality when new and after jamming a copper wire in and out of it 100s of times is most likely worn out

 

[hudgreen]

if you have to use a barrel or "coupler" get the higher freq, blue end type. the culprit most likely is the weather plate that the cable attaches on the exterior of the rv, it was low quality when new and after jamming a copper wire in and out of it 100s of times is most likely worn out

I agree 100%, Completely bypass or replace all rv cabling and fittings if you can.
I have seen brand new very expensive rv's that were wired with what looked like rg59 wire (although it could have been plenum rated cable)and screw on fittings.
All of the rv installs I do now get a fresh new wire to the dish and if the costumer insist I use the internal wiring because "this is a top of the line unit", there will be no guarantee or warranty and eventually I'll be back....on your dime.

 

[rvuse]

Thanks guys. I will bypass the RV cable and see how it checks out.

 

[Kevin Goff]

I have the Tailgater and it works fine with 50ft of cable. My camp needs about 100ft which does not work (tested at home without moving Tailgater and 50 works, 100 does not). Is there a signal amplifier that would solve this problem?

So no one answered if a simple in line amplifier would work or not?

 

[Kevin Goff]

I'm having the same problem. My tailgater is finding the satellites but can't get the signal back to my wally. I'm running 250' rg6 quad with a 3gh coupler
Can I boost the signal or get rg11?